The Hype of SoPi - South of Pigalle in Paris

by Rodrigo Lavalle

Pigalle and its surroundings have always been known for their bars, nightclubs, strip clubs, sex shops, and small venues where prostitutes and bohemians reigned (read our article here). However, for some time now, the southern part of this area has started attracting young creatives in search of cheaper rents. Soon after, young middle-class couples with their babies arrived, and just like that, the quartier became known as SoPi in the media and real estate agencies. With rents rising steadily, it was only logical.

SoPi is the part of the 9th arrondissement of Paris that lies just south of Pigalle. This name, which comes from South of Pigalle, is similar to those used in some neighborhoods of New York like SoHo, NoLIta, and TriBeCa. A system that embodies American gentrification. They invent a new name or a clever acronym for a previously 'unappealing' area and then market it. And SoPi, with all its youthfulness, dynamism, and avant-garde spirit, perhaps represents this: a French interpretation filled with substance and savoir-faire of a New York cool idea.

Some points of interest in the area that are remnants of days gone by include the Museum of Eroticism (72 boulevard de Clichy); the fetish shoe store Ernest (which made shoes for the prostitutes and transgender individuals in the area, 75 boulevard de Clichy); the performance venue Trianon (80 boulevard de Rochechouart) and the historic Folie's Pigalle (11 place Pigalle), the current nightclub where the gay party Blanc Black Beur takes place every Sunday, targeting a Black and Arab audience.

I divide SoPi into 2 parts:

Along and around rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle develops the rock, youthful, and basically hipster part of SoPi. In this area, there are many bars and cafés worth visiting at night.

The precursor was Sans Souci (65 rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle), a bar/café/brasserie where there is always a DJ playing and it is invariably packed. Across the street is the competitor-friend Lautrec (65 rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle) and almost opposite is Chez Moune (54 rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle), a lively little nightclub. The Pigalle Country Club (59 rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle) is one of those closed bars that leaves you guessing what's happening inside; I recommend it to adventurous rockers.

The younger crowd heads to Mansart (1 rue Mansart) - an old brasserie turned bar/café - to see and be seen. Nearby is Carmen (34 rue Duperré), a nightclub run from the house where Bizet lived, who composed the opera Carmen. Despite the incredible location (high ceilings and baroque décor), I find the parties lack personality/authenticity. I prefer Chez Moune.

Counting on the recently discovered love of Parisians for cocktails, we have Glass - a tiny bar owned by the same people as the 'Mexican' bar Candelária in the Marais - and Dirty Dick with its kitsch-tropical-Polynesian décor, one in front of the other on rue Frochot.

Not coincidentally, along the streets of Douai and Victor Massé there are many specialized music instrument shops like guitars and drums. In the same rock vein, Gals Rock (17 rue Henry Monnier) is a shop specialized in CDs, t-shirts, and various items from rock, indie, and folk female singers. Located at 6 rue Pierre Fontaine is the concert venue Bus Palladium.

"The place to be" right now is the restaurant Buvette (28, rue Henry Monnier), inspired somewhat by New York restaurants since its owners are Franco-American; the place made Lina drool over the roast suckling pig.

It's important to note that, like any vibrant and trendy neighborhood, places emerge, disappear, and lose their cool relevance within months.

Along and around rue des Martyrs develops the intellectual, adult, and bobo (the 'bohemian bourgeois' or the carefree wealthy who enjoy an alternative lifestyle) part of SoPi.

The rue des Martyrs itself concentrates a great deal of interesting commerce in the area and is the backbone of the neighborhood. There are various shops, cafés, and restaurants. Some cool spots include:

• A ma table (72 rue des Martyrs): a store specialized in dishes and ceramic objects. They sell various brands from different countries.

• Rose Bakery (46 rue des Martyrs): a café/pâtisserie that is half English and half French serving quick and light lunches. It's not cheap, but everything is delicious. I love the brownie and the coffee.

• Terra Corsa (42 rue des Martyrs): an épicerie/delicatessen specialized in Corsican products: hams, cheeses, wines, honey...

• Arnaud Delmontel (39 rue des Martyrs): Lina's favorite bakery! Read the article here.

• Pâtisserie des Martyrs - Sébastien Gaudard(22 rue des Martyrs): a beautiful and charming bakery by the renowned chef pâtissier Sébastien Gaudard. Photography is prohibited, a friend got told off for that.

On the corner of rue des Martyrs and avenue Trudaine is KB Café, a lovely spot to spend a sunny afternoon and flirt with the locals. A little further ahead, at number 13, is the shop of designer jewelry Marion Vidal (we talked about her here).

And a great tip for those who enjoy a juicy hamburger is Maison Mère (4 rue de Navarin). Other recommended restaurants in the neighborhood are Pantruche (3 rue Victor Massé) and Caillebotte (8 rue Hippolyte Lebas).

Staying in SoPi might be a good idea: it's central, lively, and still has affordable hotels. Here are some tips from Marcello Brito, our hotel expert: