Cycling in Ile-de-France: leaving Paris by the Ourcq and returning by the Marne

LENGTH: 82 km DURATION: 2 days DIFFICULTY: Easy BIKE: VTC, gravel

Leave Paris! Turn your back on the capital and head east, towards the fields of the Brie. The Ourcq Canal is a safe way out of Paris, as it follows on from the Bassin de la Villette, which in turn follows on from the Canal Saint-Martin. Without going so far as to turn your back on the capital and its end, at Mareuil-sur-Ourcq, head east, into the Oise, and go up its course towards the fields of the Brie. Many Parisians know it well and, when the weather is fine, use it for a picnic in the countryside, usually in the forest park of the poudrerie in Sevran. With a little more time and organisation, it is possible to see more...

Indeed, the Ourcq canal extends for more than 60 km, in an increasingly rural atmosphere. Without going as far as its end, at Mareuil-sur-Ourcq, going up its course to Claye-Souilly offers the opportunity of a breath of fresh air without great effort. From there, it is possible to join the Marne for an equally peaceful return. The banks of the Marne, perfectly laid out between Dampmart and Joinville-le-Pont, are an invitation to stroll at a slow pace. The guinguettes may not be what they used to be, but there is no shortage of opportunities to put your feet up. There is only one instruction on this itinerary: take your time, breathe and enjoy.

Stage 1: Paris - Jablines (46 km by bike)

Departure from the place de la Bataille-de-Stalingrad, from where you go up the Bassin de la Villette on the right (on the left bank!), then you cross the Parc de la Villette and pass under the ring road to leave Paris. The former large mills of Pantin, a superbly restored 19th century building, are a landmark on the right bank. Further on, on the left bank, the building of the National Dance Centre catches the eye. Once past the SNCF technicentre, long walls display some of the most accomplished graffiti frescoes in the Paris suburbs. The first possible stop is the Bergère park in Bobigny. The atmosphere becomes more and more bucolic once you get back to the left bank, but you remain in areas of pavilions and more recent constructions. Once you have passed the superb park of the Poudrerie de Sevran, the world changes completely. All you see is water, poplar hedges and abundant vegetation. Once you cross the D212, in the commune of Claye-Souilly, the towpath even forgets the tarmac! Back to reality when you reach the centre of Claye, from where you have to go to Annet, then Jablines, by road. You can also continue along the banks of the canal to Trilbardou to discover its power plant (for a guided tour, see aufildelourcq.org), and from there reach the island of Jablines (count 12 km of diversions).

Stage 2: Jablines - Paris (46 km by bike)

The beginning of the stage requires vigilance because you will not be alone on the roads you will take. At Chessy, a spectacular descent will take you to the banks of the Marne. There, the strange works of Jacques Servières, an amateur sculptor, populate the sculpture garden of the Dhuys. A footbridge crosses the Marne and drops you off on the banks of the river, which you will not leave until you reach Joinville. Initially on gravel, your path will then be on tarmac, from Vaires-sur-Marne. This section allows you to relax and enjoy the views over the course of the Marne.

At Vaires-sur-Marne, the huge expanse of water that a long straight line runs along for 2 km is the nautical stadium that will host the rowing and kayaking events during the Olympic Games. Here, another option, via the D34A and the rue de Noisiel, allows you to reach the former Menier chocolate factory with its superb buildings (guided tour by appointment on 01 60 37 73 99). Muscovy ducks, geese, swans and great crested grebes are numerous on the islands between Chelles and Gournay-sur-Marne. From there on, you get back in touch with civilisation, which you had forgotten but which was never far away. The route remains pleasant for all that. It ends with a crossing of the Bois de Vincennes, then the ascent on the coronapistes to the real cycle paths of the Cours de Vincennes. From there, it's up to you to complete the route at your convenience.

Download the free the GPS tracks of this bike tour in Île-de-France.

What to do on the route in case of rain?

Musée de la musique : Within the Cité de la Musique-Philharmonie de Paris complex, an extraordinary collection of instruments and daily demonstrations(philharmoniedeparis.fr).

Château de Vincennes : The visit of its interiors and its chapel is really worth the diversions, even if it's not raining(chateau-de-vincennes.fr)!

A variation of this bike tour to discover the Brie region

The temptation is great, when you are on the banks of the Ourcq canal, not to stop. So, in Claye-Souilly, you can extend the adventure by heading for Meaux, a 50 km round trip variant. The route leads through locks, small villages and the vast fields of the Brie region. The towpath is not necessarily in good condition, but the feeling of a journey close to nature is complete. Apart from the Trilbardou power station (see the end of the first stage), the interest lies in reaching Meaux, where you can admire the cathedral before visiting the remarkable Great War museum. The museum also offers cycling routes on the traces of the Battle of the Marne. Of course, you won't leave without buying some Brie de Meaux!

Practical information

When to go?

In spring or summer to take advantage of the swimming opportunities on the Jablines leisure island. Spring is also very good. In autumn and winter, parts of the towpaths are muddy, and the banks of the Marne are sometimes flooded.

How to get there?

The RER B (Sevran, Villeparisis, Claye) and the Transilien P (Meaux, Lagny, Vaires) run along the route. So you won't be left stranded.

What about bicycles?

There are many rental companies in Paris. Beware of Sunday closures.

Where to stay and eat?

It is possible to stay all year round on the Jablines-Annet leisure island(jablines-annet. iledeloisirs.fr), in one of the rooms of the Maison du Grand Lac. The campsite opens from the beginning of April to the end of October. Mobile homes can be rented for at least 3 days, otherwise you need to bring your tent.

Take your picnic to the Sevran park. Some nice addresses along the Marne, from east to west: La Locanda (Jablines) and its Italian specialities, Le Quincangrogne (Dampart), for a gastronomic meal, Il Capuccino (Gournay-sur-Marne), perfect for a drink, Le Pilotis (Noisy-le-Grand), invigorating at the end of the route.